Rz mamiya manual

A rubber material which is inserted in between each externally exposed part manual focus and zoom rings, buttons, switch panels etc. Lenses that accept front mounted filters typically do not have gaskets behind the filter mount.

It is recommended to use a filter for complete weather resistance when desired. Helps keep lenses clean by reducing the possibility of dust and dirt adhering to the lens and by facilitating cleaning should the need arise. Lens filters are accessories that can protect lenses from dirt and damage, enhance colors, minimize glare and reflections, and add creative effects to images.

A lens hood or lens shade is a device used on the end of a lens to block the sun or other light source in order to prevent glare and lens flare.

Flare occurs when stray light strikes the front element of a lens and then bounces around within the lens. This stray light often comes from very bright light sources, such as the sun, bright studio lights, or a bright white background. The geometry of the lens hood can vary from a plain cylindrical or conical section to a more complex shape, sometimes called a petal, tulip, or flower hood.

This allows the lens hood to block stray light with the higher portions of the lens hood, while allowing more light into the corners of the image through the lowered portions of the hood. Lens hoods are more prominent in long focus lenses because they have a smaller viewing angle than that of wide-angle lenses. For wide angle lenses, the length of the hood cannot be as long as those for telephoto lenses, as a longer hood would enter the wider field of view of the lens.

Lens hoods are often designed to fit onto the matching lens facing either forward, for normal use, or backwards, so that the hood may be stored with the lens without occupying much additional space.

In addition, lens hoods can offer some degree of physical protection for the lens due to the hood extending farther than the lens itself. Teleconverters increase the effective focal length of lenses. They also usually maintain the closest focusing distance of lenses, thus increasing the magnification significantly.

A lens combined with a teleconverter is normally smaller, lighter and cheaper than a "direct" telephoto lens of the same focal length and speed. Also, since teleconverters magnify every detail in the image, they logically also magnify residual aberrations of the lens.

More than just a camera lens database. Mamiya RZ67 system. Features highlight 6x7. Manufacturer description Without changing the outer diameter of the lens mount on the camera body, the inner diameter of the mount on the RZ67 has been increased by 7mm from 54mm on the RB to 61mm on the RZ.

Typical application landscapes, interiors, buildings, cityscapes, portraits, street, travel. Your comment. Share Clickable. Table of contents Clickable 1. Photo 2. Features highlight 3. Specification 4. Manufacturer description 5. Typical application.

Highlights Clickable Professional lens Top class. Pros and cons Ultra fast speed Built-in leaf shutter Automatic diaphragm Magnification ratio Travellers' choice Lightweight None Fluorine coating. Note Among autofocus lenses designed for 35mm full-frame mirrorless cameras only. Professional lens Top class Designed for medium format cameras Compatible with teleconverters.

One of the best fast standard primes According to lens-db. Unable to follow the link You are already on the page dedicated to this lens. Cannot perform comparison Cannot compare the lens to itself. Image stabilizer A technology used for reducing or even eliminating the effects of camera shake.

MF Sorry, no additional information is available. Original name Lens name as indicated on the lens barrel usually on the front ring. Format Format refers to the shape and size of film or image sensor. Angle of view Angle of view describes the angular extent of a given scene that is imaged by a camera. Mount A lens mount is an interface — mechanical and often also electrical — between a camera body and a lens. Lens construction Lens construction — a specific arrangement of elements and groups that make up the optical design, including type and size of elements, type of used materials etc.

Focal length The focal length is the factor that determines the size of the image reproduced on the focal plane, picture angle which covers the area of the subject to be photographed, depth of field, etc. Speed The largest opening or stop at which a lens can be used is referred to as the speed of the lens. Closest focusing distance The minimum distance from the focal plane film or sensor to the subject where the lens is still able to focus.

Closest working distance The distance from the front edge of the lens to the subject at the maximum magnification. Magnification ratio Determines how large the subject will appear in the final image.

Electromagnetic diaphragm control system Provides highly accurate diaphragm control and stable auto exposure performance during continuous shooting. In fact, the Mamiya RZ67 knows no bounds in photographic application?.. However, in order to fully take advantage Outline of Names and Functions of Parts s Inserting a Battery Focusing Hood Operation Releasing the Shutter Page 5 For occasions when the camera is mounted on a tripod, both the RB Holders which solve the problem of film curl by retaining the film perfectly flat across the entire film plane.

Thus, the full potential of Mamiya-Sekor and RZ67 allow the photographer to raise the mirror well before releasing ultra performance lenses and the large negative size are realized. R-M Lever For double exposure prevention and normal operation.

Carrying Strap Lug R: The lever is set to this position before revolving the back. M: Set the lever to this position when desiring to take multiple exposures. Page 7 Magnifier Release To raise the magnifier. Magnifier Interchangeable with other magnifiers in various diopter strengths. Prism Finder, for the finder Focusing Hood Catch switches will not Operate without the cover in place.

Focusing Screen The visible field of the focusing screen automatically changes from vertical to Page 8 Film Advance Coupler The central pin transmits a signal to the film holder which disengages the film advance-stop and activates the multi- ple exposure prevention mechanism.

Page 9 Bayonet Ring The Bayonet Ring is a breech mount which se- cures the lens onto the camera body. As a safety Flash Sync Terminal X-sync feature, the lens can not be removed from the camera body unless the mirror is set lowered , thereby assisting the Light Baffle in shielding the film from light. Page Inserting A Battery 2. Insert the battery into the chamber, taking Because the Mamiya RZ67 does not func- purchase and is stored after purchase, temperature at care to match the f poles of the battery with Remove the Rear Lens Cap.

With the front of the lens facing you, rotate ter of the lens cocked. Push the Cocking Lever of the camera body Merely lift the back of the hood until it opens completely down, setting the mirror and cock- completely. Page Releasing The Shutter Releasing the Shutter It is best to become acquainted with the method of releasing the shutter before using film in the camera.

Rotate the Release Button Col- lar until the white dot on it is aligned with the one mediately below on the Collar Stop Lever.

When this is done, the Lever should be kept in the center position, Shutter Release functions electromagnetically aligned with the index mark. Ideal for general purpose photography. According to the Mamiya catalogs and the documentation you can find online, this listing may be mixed. I already found online focusing screens for the RZ with weird references, I have never seen in any Mamiya official manuals. Mamiya made a lot of different versions of viewfinders. And you can also use older ones from the RB with a little accessory.

Some are fully manual, and some are semi-automatic providing AE. Some reverse the image right to left, and some show you the exact image you see with your eyes.

This is a presentation of the main viewfinder types you can use with an RZ camera. You have two blue buttons on each side of the front of all viewfinders, push them simultaneously like shown in this image, following the arrows.

Then pull up the viewfinder to remove it. Not complicated. Just a thing: the prism is big, heavy and very fragile. Take care when you install or remove it. The WLF — waist level viewfinder. This viewfinder is manual no automatic exposure and it is the lightest of all Mamiya viewfinders. To work with it, you need an external light meter, or if you are used to it, the sunny 16 rule. With a mm lens, you have the lightest configuration available with an RZ.

But you have to take into account all the required compensations to set your exposures: filters and bellows extension. Looking top-down into the camera, the image is reversed from right to left and it can be a problem if you are not used to it but I think this viewfinder is better for composition.

The RZ was sold with this viewfinder system by default, and it is often found with it when you seek to buy one on the second-hand market. This waist viewfinder includes a magnifier. To access it, move the lock a little to the left per the first photo below. The magnifier lifts and you can use it for precise focusing.

If you need better correction or to help your eyes you can change the default magnifier with others you can find online. With an example on hand, you can also commission your local optician to make a replacement lens for you.

It also includes a light meter with a semi-automatic exposure system AE , which allows you to shoot semi-automatically. The image above shows you what you actually see in the viewfinder when you work with the FE prism. In automatic AE mode, at the left side of the view in the viewfinder, you can see the shutter speed, that the RZ automatically adjusts according to your choice of diaphragm and ISO values, and if your image will be over or underexposed.

On the right, you have help displays for manual exposure. These indications follow the measurement made by the included light cell, depending on your choice of type Spot or Average. These are just indications, which do not make any adjustments. Note: AEL on the prism speed dial is for memorizing the exposure, all others are manual exposures. All the red indications on both speed dials are locked, to release the speed dial to set a manual speed , you need to first press the button in the middle before turning it.

To turn it and change the value, press the middle button. The little switch in the middle is the Eyepiece Blind Lever, and it can be helpful in many cases, macro, portraits: to avoid light to come from the viewfinder and fog your film. In this case, there is a help in the viewfinder LEDs at the right side of the viewfinder view that tells you if your exposition is OK green dot or not, with orange arrows for over or under exposures.

Besides, you can set the prism on AEL using the speed dial above the prism when you use the Spot mode, to memorize the lighting conditions of a particular zone. This setting is on the film back:. And remember you can use the metering system of the FE in manual, to help to find to compensate your exposure when you use filters or because of the bellow extension. As I have tested, this automatic exposition system is rather good, much more than one might think.

And I love seeing my image in the camera the same way I see it with my eyes! These two accessories come from Mamiya and are essentials if you work with the prism! The cap is generally provided with the prism, but you have to buy the pouch separately.

In case of shock or accident, the prism could be ejected from the camera, and some attach parts will be damaged. The prism could break the focusing screen glass too. I had this problem once as the result of a car accident. My prism and focusing screen were damaged and broken. However, my camera with the prism installed was sealed in a Pelicase. Because of this, I always uninstall the prism from the camera during transport, or every time I am not using the camera.

I install the waist level finder in its place and put the prism in the Mamiya pouch or in a safe and secure place. It also magnifies the view by x2,4, that is very practical for precise focusing, and have a round eyecup that helps in a lot of situations.

The view with this accessory reduces a lot the aiming in the viewfinder, but once the focus is completed, it can be raised, and let you finish the composition of your image. The RZ has many accessories for all situations, some helps me a lot to resolve my little viewing problems. He has made a tremendous number of video manuals for the Mamiya RZ67, and his camera is entirely DIY, especially on the side of the viewfinder.

Like portraits, I mostly shoot myself, the usual is to make the focus on the eyes of the model. The focusing is always very thin with an RZ, as many other systems anyway.

But you have another assistant waiting: knowledge about depth of field. For this, I use mostly apps on my smartphone. And it shows you the complete table of DOF for each configuration.

The image is reversed from right to left, like the waist viewfinder. This accessory is known to be very useful if you shoot macro, it is a little hard to find and usually costs quite a lot.

It increases magnification to 2. But some users wrote that it works well without modifications anyway. Mamiya has made other models of viewfinders, less technical and more straightforward, I do not know them much, so I prefer not to talk too much about them because many were made in the early days of RZ version I.

Even if you work in manual, you can use the AE mode to find the real compensation needed in case of using any accessories which modify exposure like a filter, or bellow extension… and apply the exact compensation value on your light meter. You can also use an RB67 PD prism with the RZ, but in this case, you need the Electrical Contact Cover accessory to protect the electrical contacts on the top of your RZ and avoid electric short circuits which can damage the electronics of the RZ.

The internal battery for the RZ series is easy to find and of a current type. I usually find mine online. You have different kinds of batteries and brands use different names for them.

All are 6V batteries. I only use known brands Energizer, Varta, Panasonic… , because they provide batteries that have the most extended time life. I have done more than 60 rolls with the same battery from one of these brands! I also tested other brands, much less known, and I made less than ten rolls with them. For me, Silver ones are the best.

Tip: Always carry one or two new batteries just in case. They are small and do not take a lot of space in your bag. You can also find an external battery case from Mamiya with a part that replaces the battery in its compartment on the bottom of the RZ, with a wire and a little box for the same type of battery than the RZ, 4LR44 or 4SR This external battery case purpose is to maintain battery performance when you shoot in cold conditions.

This camera is fantastic! If you have a doubt: test it. In any case, I hope that I will have given you the desire to try it by reading this review… It is a good camera, a great camera but how it suits you will very much depend on what you need the camera to do. The main advantage of this system is obviously the quality of the lenses. Maybe not as good as the latest Hasselblad lenses, or some known German lenses, but incredibly fantastic anyway.